The German Restaurant, Holiday
We had been living in Florida for only six months and already one of our favorite restaurants was closing. Nineteen years they had been in operation and our first year here is the year they close? My calamity cup runneth over.
At least we had been able to enjoy Chef Ewe’s cooking. I have been thrilled to find more than ten German restaurants in the Tampa region—over ten more than back home. Still, we really liked this place and were sad to see it go. We planned a final trip to say farewell, making it an overnighter with a visit to Tarpon Springs.
The first time we encountered The German Restaurant was during our whirlwind road trip along the Anclote Anchorage. After a day of bouncing around the coast from park to park, we were tired and hungry. A speedy Yelp revealed The German Restaurant just up the road.
As far as ethnic restaurant scarcity is concerned, Chinese is water while German is diamonds. When you see it, you seize it, even if you’ve only appetite or funds for one lonely schupfnudeln. So it was with some enthusiasm that Christa leaped at the opportunity when I presented The German Restaurant. She white-knuckled the oh-shit-bar as I applied pedal to metal up Pinellas Avenue, then braked from red light to red light.
Located in Holiday on the northbound side of Rt. 19, The German Restaurant was as straightforward and to the point as its name. I suppose it’s a testament to the lack of German eateries that such a name causes no confusion. Imagine calling your place The Pizzeria, or Chinese Take-Out.
We found the food to be simple, well prepared, and delectable Bavarian comfort recipes. They prepared a tender and spiced sauerbraten with a rich gingersnap sauce…so delicious. Then I tasted Christa’s jagerschnitzel—Oh, Mein Gott. It was disappointing to know we’d never again taste it after this day.
We pulled into the parking lot of The German Restaurant for the last time and immediately my energy returned in anticipation of what awaited our appetites. Our entrance was greeted with warm smiles by the staff who ushered us to our seats.
If you overlook the drop ceiling, the interior has the appearance of a Bavarian guest house or Fawlty Towers (Don’t mention the war!) I thought it was cozy. And if I squint I’m transported decades past to flowered wallpaper, doll collections, wall hangings, pictures, and steins. It lends a comfortable, if dated, appeal like visiting an older relative for dinner. This decor is very common in German restaurants we’ve visited and I like it, but just once I want to find a place decorated in the theme of the Roboter video.
Our server took our drinks order and we perused the menu for our appetizers. We already knew what we were getting for entrees: jagerschnitzel. Yes, I have written before about always ordering jagerschnitzel and the merits of exploring the menu deeper and trying other things. But The German Restaurant was closing for good and we’d never again have the opportunity to enjoy this savory treat again.
I selected the schmalz and currywurst appetizer, and the potato leek and sausage soup. Christa got the garden salad. Our server returned with the sad news that the schmalz was not available, but it was okay. We had the love and peace and plenty of food coming; this would save room for dessert.
A basket of German sliced bread and butter arrived and soon our soups. I immediately realized I had forgotten to request a side of the apple flavored red cabbage, aka blaukraut, aka rotkohl. I went to ask the waiter to include it.
The soup was delicious and well seasoned, though a bit grainy in texture. No worries for me, though; it makes for a rustic texture and it tasted so good, so who cares? Do I seem to be enjoying this experience with a less critical eye than I usually apply? It might be so. Perhaps my fondness for the place and the knowledge that I’ll never experience it again was affecting my judgment. Regardless, we loved our meals.
The currywurst arrived next and it was exactly what I expected: sliced frankfurter in a warmed ketchup mixed with curry powder with a dusting of curry powder on top. If this sounds like a half-assed concoction and a poor rendition of a classic German dish: au contraire mon frere. That is exactly what traditional currywurst is, depending on which part of Germany you are referencing.
Currywurst is a simple dish enjoyed as street food and bar fare all over Germany and, though no two vendors prepare it exactly the same and it has its upscale versions, this method of preparation is wholly authentic and valid. It was tasty, too, but I’d not get it again. This was just a trial as an appetizer before our main meals arrived. I can make currywurst at home in 30 seconds.
See? I can be dispassionate.
Finally, as the reward for the entire two-day ordeal, the pork jagerschnitzel was set before us. The aroma of the creamy mushroom gravy hit my nose like a steamy bouquet of earthy fungi, broth, wine, and herbs. The spaetzle glistened in thick buttery strands like rustic tagliatelle, lightly browned from the saute pan. Peaking out from beneath its blanket of gravy was the schnitzel itself—the thinly pounded cutlet of schwein in its golden pajamas of pan-fried breadcrumbs.
A bowl of radiant red cabbage was placed between us and I dolloped a pillow of it beside my spaetzle. For the life of me, I can’t figure out why rotkohl (blaukraut) has not become an American tradition—cabbage, apples, vinegar, and spices braised to a stunning magenta. It’s so dreamy. And a perfect match for balancing the buttery, starchy spaetzle.
That jagerschnitzel was magnificent. Let’s face it, as long as the meat is thin, tender and free of gristle and the breading is crisp and well seasoned (and this was), the test of a good schnitzel comes down to the sauce. This mushroom hunter’s sauce was rich and savory, cream-thickened and seasoned well. The mushrooms were tender and plentiful—the menu did specify lots of them—and the onions brought flavor but were unobtrusive. I couldn’t be sure if bacon fat or butter was used, but the sauce had a nice mouthfeel and didn’t coat the tongue.
A forkful of chicken, a mushroom, and some spaetzle dredged through the gravy was an eye-rolling, deep-breathed joy to consume. The cutlet of pork was pounded thin and tender, the breading was delicate, crisp, and seasoned well. Minced parsley garnished the dish and a finish of (I think) sherry in the sauce made a complex and mouthwatering creation that was so good that I teared up when the plate was bare. It’s a magnificent dish that makes another good dish seem mediocre. We will miss this.
We savored each bite to the last in quiet contemplation with measured breath. This was meditation. I mopped my plate with the reserved piece of bread and we were finished. We had finished the last we would have of the best jagerschnitzel we had yet had. It was as glorious and sad as that last sentence was confusing. And that one.
There are few combinations of flavors that synergize so well as does pork schnitzel, mushroom gravy, vinegary apple cabbage, and spaetzle.
Combinations in the same ballpark are:
1) roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, mashed potatoes, garden peas and beef gravy
2) roast turkey, herbed stuffing, candied yams, and turkey gravy
3) BBQ ribs, baked beans, collard greens, macaroni and cheese with a tangy red sauce
4) Meatballs with veal, pork, and beef, well-salted pasta, a rich tomato sauce in which simmered the meatballs, parmesan cheese a green salad in a vinegar and olive oil with garlic bread
Our server asked if we had room for dessert and we requested the menu. As much as we love the entrees, here, we’re unsure of the desserts. Our previous experience with the strudel was lackluster and we were cautious. The pastry was thick and eggy instead of light and flaky.
It was a disappointing experience, but I thought maybe it was a regional variation (I’ve yet to find so, through modest research.) If I had no idea what strudel was, I might have found it to be an okay dessert. The vanilla sauce was tasty.
Christa suggested I get the black forest cake, but I saw they had bee-sting cake and had always wanted to try it, so we got one Bienenstich to share. There are many variations on the bee-sting cake and dubious stories as to its invention. I don’t know which is the most authentic, but the one we had at The German Restaurant was just okay.
It was sweet, the almond brittle topping was crunchy and delicious. The cake was soft and spongy with a delicate flavor. We are not fans of whipped cream as a cake filling and would have preferred a buttercream or pastry cream—personal tastes. I didn’t notice a particularly honey flavor, though the cake itself (the upper half) was dense with syrup; the bottom half was too light and insubstantial. I’d opt for half the Chantilly, twice the cake.
The Bienenstich was not a bad dessert. It just was not suited to our particular tastes which lean toward dense, sweet, and decadent. It certainly did not tarnish the wonderful meal we had thus far. We are harshly critical of desserts.
We are very sad to know The German Restaurant will no longer be there to fulfill our gastro needs of the Teutonic nature. In my email reservation request, I expressed my dismay at the closing. Chef Ewe Kaspar responded, stating they, too, were sad, but that the property owner was selling the space. It was out of their hands. This was too bad, but it gave me hope. Since it was not their decision to close, perhaps they will find the drive to open another place nearby.
During our dessert, co-owner Dagmar was making rounds inquiring as to everyone’s satisfaction and greeting patrons as old friends. As we passed on our way out, she hugged us and thanked us for our business and for seeing them off before they closed. We don’t know each other, but I was touched and it broke my heart. They really loved what they did and this appeared painful to them.
Perhaps they will find some encouragement in the response of patrons and seek a new outlet for their passion elsewhere—come to Brandon area, we’ll dine with you every week—unless age and the timing simply spur them to retire and relax. Whichever occurs, I wish the staff, Chef Ewe and Dagmar the best in whatever they pursue. Thank you for such delicious food, it brought us great joy.
Auf wiedersehen.
Thanks for reading!